Karola had been living on Iriomote - one of the small, remote Yaeyama islands floating in the East China Sea - for five years. She was the first foreigner to live on the island, and the only one (which counts venomous snakes, an endangered cat, and an almost-extinct language amongst its credentials).

Tucked away in the tranquil waters of the Seto Inland Sea lies a small island with a big reputation: Naoshima. Once a quiet fishing community, it has transformed into one of Japan’s most captivating destinations - not because of neon lights or skyscrapers, but thanks to world-class contemporary art, striking architecture, and a profound sense of purpose.

If you happen to find yourself in Japan in September, you might notice something quietly magical happening. Lanterns glowing softly in temple gardens, sweet rice dumplings stacked neatly on window sills, tall grasses swaying in the breeze - and above it all, a full, glowing moon.